About Brocade Paithani
On a brocade Paithani the zari does not stay at the border. It is carried across the body of the saree as an all-over weave, so the whole drape catches light rather than only the edges.
It is heavier than a plain-body Paithani and takes longer on the loom, which is why brocade pieces sit at the grander end of the range — receptions, weddings, and occasions where the saree is meant to be the thing people look at.